Outspoken and idealistic, the most potent tastemakers are straightforward and idealistic. Cameron Laux talks about the gatekeepers who make decisions about what we wear and how we work.
The sole arbiters of fashion taste used to be a limited collection of glossy print publications. Now that style commentators have expanded to countless websites, Instagram posts, and other sources, the role of tastemaker has become more complex – both of which are capturing the interest of people under 35 and eating up advertisement budgets as they go.
There’s the Business of Fashion, or BoF, which began as a simple one-person fashion blog in 2007 and has since evolved into a multifaceted online fashion magazine and consultancy. A sniffle from BoF will send fashion houses into convulsions. Then there’s Highsnobiety, a streetwear website/multimedia brand/branding business (with apparent synergies) that has attained the holy grail in the post-‘legacy-media’ multiverse, becoming a bastion of good taste.
The daily bulletin email from Highsnobiety is primarily about limited-edition sneakers and clothing. Still, it can also include elements of broader cultural and artistic analysis – music, film, fashion, and some dalliance in the arts and design – that weave together to form a kind of lifestyle meta-commentary. The year 2018 was commonly recognised as the year of streetwear’s maturation. Check eBay if you have any doubts: a pair of 1988 Nike Air Jordans is currently on sale for C$42,000 (£24,779), with 341 people’ watching’.
The true storey, though, is the market for limited-edition trainers, T-shirts, jeans, hats, and other items – new or resale – for which many ordinary people can pay exorbitant costs. In this way, the word “street” applies to regular people on the street who have slight yet obsessive taste refinements that enable them to master a wide variety of Pedi.
The rise of designer Virgil Abloh is mainly due to the current importance of streetwear. Abloh is just as ‘street’ as you can get. He first gained notoriety as a collaborator on rapper Kanye West’s Yeezy label, then found his Off-White label. Yeezy had a habit of selling out quickly and then moving onto resale sites, which it still does. At the same time, Off-White gave underground fashionistas fits as they threw their money at each limited-edition ‘release’ of clothes. Over the last year, Virgil Abloh has broken the fashion internet more times and in more ways than anyone else.
Abloh has become the artistic director of Louis Vuitton, a luxury fashion house that is undoubtedly waiting for Abloh to bring some of the market magic to its brand. The pairing makes sense: Abloh’s raunchy anti-aesthetic, which features clashing colours, loud designs, and even louder slogans, branding, and tags, should complement the LV logo, which has become a symbol of wealth. Why not seize the opportunity and run with it? The arbiter of taste is skilled at treading the fine line between elitism and simplicity in terms of style.
In several ways, the idea of riches has become cliched. Those who celebrate it have become taste judges – but not necessarily of ‘good taste. Kris Jenner recently received the Goyard “Rich as it Can Be” suitcase as a Christmas gift from her family. This sparked a debate. It’s also probably ironic, and it’s a lot of fun to figure out. On one level, the slogan implies that only fools care about degrees of wealth or style because of its utter vulgarity. In a way, the entire Kardashian family dedicates their lives to providing their audience with an impeccable, and probably democratic, lack of taste.
Highsnobiety walks a fine line between elite vulgarity and accessibility, but not too much accessibility. To aid us in this minefield, it has recently released The Incomplete Highsnobiety Guide, a bible of street fashion and culture – because if it were ‘complete,’ Highsnobiety would be the snobbish authority it despises, and its project would be dead. If you happen to be a style nerd or, in Japanese, an otaku, the book defies standards by being stimulating and near basic. It crackles with fascinating countercultural confidence and creativity, even if you aren’t. It’s called a ‘snapshot’ because the street style changes rapidly.
The evolution of street style shows that popular culture is undergoing a metamorphosis and is becoming involved in youth-led radical identity politics. Mark Parker, the CEO of Nike, one of the playground’s big boys, contributes an interview to the Incomplete Guide’s first chapters. (There’s a picture of him with his lips pulled together in a grimace.) Does the 63-year-old seem uneasy?) “Consumers want to know what you stand for as a company,” he says, and he believes it is important to “speak out against inequalities.” In 2018, a Nike ad campaign prominently supported Colin Kaepernick, an American football player who sparked outrage when he refused to stand for the national anthem.
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