Buying jewellery is a process that comes with more intricacies than you normally assume. While a jewellery design course from a reputed institution will help you understand several facets of the same, you do need guidance while choosing polished jewellery. Custom-made jewellery designing is usually an expensive affair as far as the final product is concerned. Detailing is the key, along with finishing. For pieces that are not as costly, detailing may require more time than what would normally justify the labour involved. Some jewellers may not always invest the same time and energy into finishing pieces. Some cast settings may come with rough surfaces that require immediate smoothening. High polish will never be attainable in such cases without buffing. This is a common affair since shortcuts are often taken while creating jewellery pieces.
If you are buying jewellery, it is imperative that you carefully examine the polish factor, checking the surface minutely for gauging its levels of smoothness. Polished finishes are made with the use of specialized compounds for polishing and fast-spinning brushes that smoothen out the surface of the gold. A brushed/satin-made finish is made by brushing a fine grit surface in a direction that goes against the grain. Frost finishing styles, in contrast, go deeper against the gold in each direction.
While jewellery designing focuses on style, functionality and form, several creators view polishing as a repetitive and time-consuming process. However, it is one of the most important aspects of the whole procedure of creating/repairing jewellery pieces. The final appearance is what counts in this case, and although proper polishing may help in covering up sloppy craftsmanship, poor quality of polishing will make expert craftsmanship appear flimsy. As your jewellery design course will teach you, polishing and buffing are the two most important procedures for creating that eventual high luster impact for jewellery pieces.
Buffing is an abrasive method where a smaller portion of the surface gets removed with the help of the Tripoli compound. It helps in the removal of small sanding scratches and smoothening out the surfaces, although this will not be a brighter polish. The higher luster is accomplished through careful polishing, which makes use of rouge among other compounds of a harder nature. Several rouge types are present for varying usage, and they can be differentiated on the basis of colour. Yellow rouge is one of the chosen picks for gold since it is not as messy as conventional red rouge. Rouge helps in metal burnishing, shifting surface layers for smoothening out finer buffing scratches.
Experts advise not mixing the Tripoli and rouge buffs since they may lead to contamination of the latter. This will lead to an improper finish and ensure that jewellery is wiped or washed off after using the former. Jewellery should never be elevated over the horizontal line, even while using the motor spindle. Similarly, it should never be overtly lowered. Working a little below the buff wheel center is advisable in this case. Work should be firmly pressed against the buff wheel in order to feel the cutting process taking place suitably. Extra pressure, however, will not result in a superior polish or finish. Lighter pressure will not work as well. Hence, firm and balanced pressure is the need of the hour.
The buff wheels should not be overloaded with excessive rouge or Tripoli compounds. It is not always required that you apply a higher amount of compounds while using the buff method. Apply compounds only when they are required. The buff rotation threshold is 57 t/, times of a second at 3450 rpm (regular polishing motor speeds). This indicates that 57 compound layers are being put on the wheel for each second that you are holding the Tripoli or rouge bar against your spinning wheel.
The jewellery should be continually moved, and holding it for a longer duration in a single position may lead to non-desired grooves being cut into the metal. The extra cutting may also lead to the removal of detailing and shape changes. The jewellery should be neatly pressed against the spinning wheel before being moved in a downward direction. Then move it sideways, roll it, rotate the same and place it to ensure that the wheel touches all metal areas. They will be uniformly polished as a result, and cross buffing will lead to higher shine too.
Buff through all solder joints rather than the actual joint itself. Solder will normally be softer as compared to surrounding metals. In case you are buffing with the joint, then the polishing will be faster for the solder, leaving behind a metal groove in its place. Jewellery should be firmly held, and fingers should never be interlocked into the same. A ring should never be put on the finger for polishing purposes. For a more professional finish and appearance, the flex-shaft is a good starting point. It has smaller brushes and wheels, enabling easy polishing of delicate zones and prongs without any minute damages. It will help in reaching more inaccessible zones with bigger wheels. Hence, buffing and polishing on a bigger machine will help in a smoother and higher luster. These are some basics that aspiring designers should keep in mind.
Learning about these essential techniques is only possible with the right educational program. If you are seeking 360-degree learning with competitive jewellery designing courses fees, JD Institute of Fashion Technology is a good choice. This multi-award winning design institution was founded in 1988 and had 38+ learning centers spread throughout India. JD Institute was born out of the pioneering vision of President Chandraakant Dalal and Co-Founder R C Dalal. It is known for its cutting-edge programs in jewellery design, fashion design, interior design, visual merchandising, fashion business management, fashion photography, hair and make-up artistry, fashion and lifestyle entrepreneurship and more. Practical exposure and invaluable mentoring combine with research, classroom training and industry alignment for the best possible educational experience.